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1
Voltage on U4 Pin 3 and 5 are the same
DMM Diode Test shows that both sides (red and green) are working.
What I see on Pin 6 of U4: with Gain at 0 and Out at 0: 3,26V. Turning Out up to max the Voltage on Pin 6 stays at 3,26 V. When backing off the Out a bit the Voltage goes up to 15V, the red LED is on, the Voltage fades down and the green LED comes on for a while and fades to off. Voltage gets down to 3,26 V again.
2
Phantom Power on Pin 15 is stable (49,45 V), Voltage on R3 is 49,45V on one and 47,90 V on the other side, C1 populated again.
3
but the partslist with C1 on is crossed out
Make sure you are using the latest parts list. C1 must be populated.
Does the 48 V rail (on the finger connector, pin 15) remain stable when the voltage on the XLR drops?
What is the phantom voltage level on each side of R3?
4
Check the bi-color LED with your DMM in diode test mode. It should light up in one color, then the other when you reverse the test leads.
Check that you receive the peak voltage of the input signal on U4 pin5, the same as pin3.
Check the DC voltage on U4 pin6. It should be a few millivolts above 0.
5
Hi all, following my previous post about LD2 there is another problem that came up. When using Phantom Power, Everything works fine for a short while and than the signal fades away quite rapidly. The Voltage on IN+ and - is down to 28V when the 48V switch is engaged. What confuses me a bit is that on the kit C1 (100u, 63V) is packed but the partslist with C1 on is crossed out and on the new one C1 is no longer there. I have put C1 in initially and thought that this might cause the problem and so I desoldered it, but the behaviour is the same.
Any help highly appreciated!
Best regards,
Guenter
6
Hi all, just finished the MP566-II and everything seems to work ok, but LD2 does not light green when a signal is processed (it stays dark). When saturating LD2 does light red, so this way of LD2 is working. Testing the LED shows that both directions (red and green) are ok. What I have seen is that U4.2 Pin 7 stays at -16 V whether a signal is applied or not. Does this mean that the Op Amp is dead - at least the one for the green path of LD2? I have also checked the connections and Diode-orientation of the R's, C's and D's that are components in this part of the circuitry and this also seems to be fine.
Any help is appreciated!
Thank you in advance,
Guenter
7
True-Grit Tube saturator / Re: TRUE GRIT Problème
« Last post by JPK on July 27, 2026, 06:23:56 PM »
👍
8
True-Grit Tube saturator / Re: TRUE GRIT Problème
« Last post by Loudwig51 on July 27, 2026, 01:38:42 PM »
Bonjour et merci!
Tout est réglé, votre aide fut précieuse.

Cordialement

Ludo
9
True-Grit Tube saturator / Re: TRUE GRIT Problème
« Last post by JPK on July 27, 2026, 09:50:04 AM »
Il faut que vous restauriez la connexion entre P1-pin-haute et R7-pin-gauche en soudant un fil entre ces 2 points.
10
True-Grit Tube saturator / Re: TRUE GRIT Problème
« Last post by Loudwig51 on July 26, 2026, 12:25:42 PM »
Bonjour et merci.
Du coup la résistance de P1 fonctionne correctement ça varie bien entre 0 et 19k
Le code couleur de R5 et R7 est ok.
Par contre j’ai bien un problème de connections entre la broche latérale haut de P1 sur R7, R5 est ok. (J’ai fait les tests sur TG2 également) du coup R7 ne s’applique pas, d’où le problème!
J’ai mesuré R5 et R7 sur les 2 machines est c’est ok sur le 4,7k.
Ça viendrait de P1?
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